HERE'S A column published this week in the IHT/Asahi.
Our Web site leaves a lot to be desired, most importantly the cool art
that accompanies the piece by Kayo Mori. The copyeditor RC gets props
for cleaning up my grammar and a great headline.
Where have you gone, evil skinny dudes in lime-green sweat suits?
I had an hour to kill and a few thousand yen to fritter away.
Grumble, grumble.
"What did you say?" my wife asked.
Mumble, mumble.
"What'd you--"
"It's not the same."
I watched 1,000 yen in pachinko balls pour uselessly down the drain.
I stared malevolently at the portraits of male Korean pop idols
spinning on the face of the machine. "You look like girls!" I snarled.
"You look like a loser," the portraits seemed to whisper as the last ball vanished.
I tried a different machine--this one anime-themed. I fed another
1,000-yen note into a slot on the side, wiggled my butt into a comfy
but no-nonsense position and turned the handle.
Clatter-clack--smack on glass: The balls raced up and fell back.
What the heck? I looked down; the tray was empty. In 90 seconds? No
fun! What happened to staring mindlessly at the machine for 30 minutes?
I'd entered the pachinko parlor only 10 minutes earlier. I should
have known something was amiss when a frisky employee trotted up to
offer assistance.
Expecting sullen, I got eager; expecting a
slob with half a bento spilled down the front of his uniform, I got
fabric-softener fresh.
It was all wrong. I had long viewed
pachinko as the essence of Japanese culture--a furious, eye-glazing
form of Zen. Pachinko was satori; Kabuki was paint drying.
But that was 15 years ago. My Osaka pachinko parlor prowling days were long gone.
It got worse. Where were my deafening gunkan navy marching songs?
Gone, replaced with insipid pop tunes. Where was the cigarette smoke as
dense as San Francisco fog? Gone. Only a couple of people were puffing,
and none of the smoke was drifting my way.
The clientele was different than I remembered. Most looked sane. Many prosperous. Nobody gave me a dirty look.
Where were all the evil skinny dudes in lime-green sweat suits? It
was unnerving. The one thing most of us seemed to have in common was
losing.
There were two exceptions. A dull-eyed woman in her 50s
and a fat guy. Their winnings--tubs and tubs of metal balls--sat at
their feet.
I returned to my wife and the pop idols. She'd hit a mini-jackpot, winning enough to keep playing for a few more minutes.
My idols started singing and pouting after I stuffed another
1,000-yen note into the machine. Like lemmings, my pachinko balls
jumped off the cliff. As I stubbornly shoved in more cash, my wife quit
playing. She'd lost 2,000 yen, her limit.
"It's impossible to win," I said.
She shrugged. "The government keeps changing the rules. The machines
can give out more balls now, I think." She nodded at the fat guy
squatting over his hoard.
So, I asked her, "If a few win more, a lot of people are going to win less?"
"Maybe," she said. "You sure did."